Monday 30 October 2017

Blog twenty-seven: Oh hi-owa, Iowa (City)

Meeting John Kenyon, Director of Iowa City of Literature.

Greetings from Keokuk, Iowa, and my seat on the Burlington Trailways bus to St Louis. Whilst you may be reading these blogs fairly close together due to me posting them with little time apart, it feels like a lifetime ago that I was leaving Chicago to travel 4 hours west to Iowa City.

Iowa City was one of the first UNESCO Cities of Literature and has a good 10 years’ experience under its belt on how to develop and sustain a program of activity, boost awareness and make the having of a CoL office sustainable after the UNESCO start-up funds. This obvious link between Nottingham and Iowa City as sister Cities of Lit and being part of the UNESCO Creative Cities Network had been my initial draw to the place but soon found there’s much more to see and find here with their bustling university seemingly the hub of much of this great activity. With only 2 full days in Iowa City, with one of these being a Saturday, I had to pile much of what I planned to do with organisations into just the one day and, when meeting with both the City of Lit and the IYWP they put me on to other people, who I hope to contact via email and Skype soon.

I arrived late-ish on Wednesday and went directly to where I was staying in Coralville, the neighbouring town to Iowa City, but the two have expanded so much that they now feel like one conurbation. And I went to bed, because I was tired out! I would need to be on top form the next day!

My first meeting in Iowa City was with Mallory Hellman from the Iowa Youth Writing Project and her team. Mall is a friend of Brandon’s, who I met at 826DC. The IYWP deliver in-school workshops and big-out-of-school engagement sessions, like their young writers’ conference which could have over 200 students attending this year! They’re strongly tied to the university and we meeting in Mall’s office on campus. We talk about the model they use, success stories and the commonalities and differences, as we see them, in the US and UK systems – although we veer into talking about healthcare for ages and I do my love-letter/eulogy for the NHS. Later, I have a long conversation about evidencing and impact reporting – the glamorous life I lead! IYWP are going to be in a school later and invite me along so I can see what they do first-hand after my next meeting.

Me and Mallory at the IYWP.


Next up, is meeting John Kenyon – the director of Iowa City of Literature, at the public library where their office is based. I have a small window of time before meeting John so have a quick wander around town and try to take in some of the brass plaques honouring writers inlaid into the pavements, which form part of the city’s Lit Walks, and have a look at library and its children’s section.
I meet John and the Rachels (both of the other two staff members are, not surprisingly, called Rachel) and we talk about what Nottingham is doing as a CoL, Iowa’s specific interests and programming, bookstores and baseball – John is a Dodgers fan and finds it pretty funny that I support the Padres, even having my Padres hoodie on under my jacket.

I’m particularly impressed with the work Iowa CoL does with sophomore high-school students with their annual essay writing contest, the Paul Engle High School Essay Contest, where the winning prize of which is a year’s free tuition to the university (!!!), and the One Book, Two Book children’s literature festival which places work created by children, working with organisations like IYWP, alongside professional, national-profile children’s authors. They have a close association also with an organisation which is the national exam body for one of the tests US children have to complete – they work together in the marking of writing submissions by children and award prizes for both technical proficiency and writing from the heart, something which I really liked as an idea. I also loved the Little Free Libraries and John gave me a plaque for a new library which I hope to set up in Nottingham! John gave me a list of things to do in Iowa City around its literary heritage and contemporary scene and said he’d hook me up with his friend Jim, who runs a tailgate party before the college football games and that there was one on Saturday.

My next stop was Mark Twain Elementary school with IYWP where I joined some of Mal’s students for their regular after-school program. I two sessions, one for third-graders and another for fourth-graders, we wrote stories in groups about what Halloween (our prompt was “what would we do if we discovered our house was haunted”) and in the other, wrote definitions for nonsense words and I made the group come up with a definition for “mardy”, which they decided was a type of zebra, or zeeeeeebra, as they would say!

Iowa City's Little Free Libraries


On Saturday morning, I visited the front of the Iowa Children’s Museum, who are one of the partners in the One Book, Two Book program that the City of Literature runs. They had some cool STEM activities and ball runs which had attracted a very excited crowd of little Iowans. I got the bus into town and went to visit some of the town’s Little Lending Libraries, which I’d seen online before and then spoken to John about the day before. I dropped into the famous Prairie Lights bookstore next and spotted a photo of DH Lawrence up next to the cash register – us Cities of Lit have to stick together!

I then took the brisk walk from town to the university campus, across the Iowa River, to the monstrously large Kinnick Stadium. John had hooked me up with his friend Jim, who had been the president of the CoL board, who runs a tailgate party from the back of his Suburban – serving up a menu of beer, snacks and a good time! Tailgating is a uniquely American experience and, when stood with a light beer in a koozie in your hand in a freezing cold parking lot with a man playing a Sousaphone next to you and everyone singing their “fight song”, then you understand why. Everyone at Jim’s party was so welcoming and interested in what I was doing, including one who was a school librarian – so we had a great chat – plus, his friend Kim got me a ticket for the game!

My over-riding memory for the game was that the stadium, which seats 70,000, was full and this was for a university game! The last time I watched a team in gold and black on a synthetic pitch was Basford United, and here was a crowd the size of Manchester United! It was also freezing! Iowa was experiencing a bit of a cold snap and it got down to around -2! Iowa beat Minnesota by 17 – 10 and they got to keep a trophy of a pig called Floyd. As an outsider, it was a strange experience, especially with the stoppy-starty nature of Gridiron but I did enjoy the noise of the partisan crowd, particularly when it was the opposition’s third down!

Before the game at Kinnick Stadium! Go Hawkeyes!


After the game I headed back into town to meet Rachel and her husband to see “the other side of Iowa City”. IC can seem quite genteel and a sleepy university town that can spill over a little when the football or the students are on form, but there’s a subversive side too. Rachel wanted to show me this and we went to the Heartland Bombshells’ queer Halloween-themed burlesque show at the Blue Moose tavern and grabbed a few beers in some of the other bars, although sadly Vonnegut’s old haunt of the Dublin Underground was full of students in fancy dress.

On my final day in Iowa, I found out that James T Kirk was "born" in Riverside, Iowa on March 22, 2233, so, to all my new found friends in Iowa, may you all live long and prosper, and yes, in this analogy I'm so definitely Spock. Now my Midwest adventure continues south to St Louis, MO and Alton, IL before heading across to Tennessee! This is still feeling like one incredible journey!